‘Every Chef Must Train Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on List of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.